Meeting with parents of children with Down syndrome

Tonya Luna, HWS '97 & Geneva City School District, Geneva, NY

     Jenna Keeton and I recently had the opportunity to meet with some parents and children with Down syndrome here in Barnaul. I myself have a son with Down syndrome and it is a strong interest of mine. During many of our previous visits to schools in Barnaul we would ask about the education of children with disabilities. The answer we received is that they have special schools and we got the feeling that inclusion was not yet acceptable, which is why we wanted to hear first hand from families.  The four mothers that came are pioneers in this region and country. They are the first to advocate for inclusion, although with limited success.  They are out there trying to change public perceptions of people with Down syndrome and show their capabilities. They do admit that they are still the minority, and many parents still give their babies with Down syndrome up at birth.
     As we entered the room, we were greeted with the biggest smiles from 6 year old Varrya and 15 year old Arman. Varya then proceeded to say hi and use other English words. Her mother, Marina, says that she has been learning English from Canadian websites. Wow! As we talked, she shared that Varya attended a regular preschool but she does not want to send her on to the first class in a public school because she would be with 30 students and they do not have student helpers or specialized teachers.
     As we began talking, the parents fired questions at us about education, inclusion, sports, and benefits for children with Down syndrome in the NY. They seemed intrigued with many of our answers and we could sense just how different it is in Russia. They are part of a group that translates as  Sunny Kids that are working to change public perceptions of Down syndrome.  Check out their website, www.sunkrug.su
     As it was nearing time to leave, you could sense that we all still had more questions for each other, so by exchanging contact information and with hugs and "I Love You" from Varya we reluctantly parted.  I am so fortunate to have met these wonderful mothers and I applaud their efforts to make a difference for their children.

Teacher Twitter (Ryan Zlomek)

One of our teacher participants, Ryan Zlomek, also has been tweeting about his experiences here: https://twitter.com/MPHtechnology. Musings on culture, life in Barnaul, and the challenges of starting Russian in Russia are documented :).

City Hymn of Barnaul

Students in the beginning classes were sent a link to this Youtube video of the city hymn. It shows a number of views of Barnaul. Viewers may also recognize the late actor Valery Zolotukhin (1941-2013), who was born in the Altai Krai, in several shots. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2OxqM6p6ym8

Lake Teletskoye, Day Two: Rafting and Riverside Lunch

Alison McCarthy, WS '15

On Sunday morning, we gathered at the bus after breakfast to head out for our rafting trip. After generous applications of the strongest sunscreen and bug spray we could get our hands on, we felt prepared to take on the Biya River, which is an outflow of Lake Teletskoye. Our bus driver dropped us off on the river bank, where we split up into two rafts and received instructions from our rafting guides. They told us that the rapids were only rated 2 on a scale of 1-6, which was reassuring. What was less reassuring, however, was the realization that our guides would be giving instructions in Russian. As obvious as this might seem, I think that none of us were really prepared for that reality. Nonetheless, we climbed aboard our rafts and pushed off from the bank.

We hit our first rapid within the first two minutes of the trip. Despite the language barrier, we managed to follow our guide's instructions and made it through the rapid, though Maddy and I were the first ones to experience a refreshing splash of river water. After the rapid, we had a chance to glide along the river and appreciate the natural beauty surrounding us. The water was calm and as clear as glass; there was hardly a moment where we could not see the smooth gray stones on the river bed. Everywhere we turned, we were surrounded by steep mountain slopes covered with Siberian pine, birch, and fir trees. Occasionally, we could spot a black kite perched on a high tree branch or searching for prey overhead. It was incredibly beautiful, and I tried to take in the view every time we took a break from paddling.

In total, the trip down the river was 20 km (about 12 mi). I can't speak for the other group, but my rafting group certainly had some difficulty with synchronized paddling, which led to a little bit of friendly bickering. However, we paddled through several rapids without issue. The final test, which our guide referred to as a "surprise" as we approached it, was a small waterfall. Professor Galloway, Joan, Maddy, and I got thoroughly soaked, but in the 90 degree heat, we had no complaints. Soon enough, our rafting adventure came to an end and we clambered from our rafts onto shore.

Next on the agenda was lunch and banya, but we were on the side of a road, surrounded by forests. Suddenly, we were being led through the forest by one of our rafting guides. In bathing suits and flip-flops, we trekked down narrow trails and climbed up and down hills along the river. En route to our destination, we had a stunning view from a small hill overlooking the Biya River and the surrounding mountain peaks.

Finally, we passed through a small wooden gate and found ourselves in a hidden Siberian paradise, complete with banya and river views. It was here that we met our host Maria. She was an Altaian woman, dressed in traditional Altaian clothing, and the property tucked away in the woods was actually her family's ancestral land. 

After the men and women took their turns in the banya, we sat down to a traditional Altaian lunch which consisted of soup, salad, and kasha. We also tried alcohol made from milk, and чай brewed from local plants. 

My favorite part of the day was when I had a few quiet moments to myself sitting beside the river. Right before we left, I plunged into the cold river water one last time, since I knew I would not get another chance. After lunch, Maria led us back to the bus and gave us a heartfelt goodbye. We had a long bus ride home, but we arrived in Barnaul just in time to see the sun setting behind the city skyline. It was a perfect ending to the weekend.

Lake Teletskoye, Day One

Christine Porschet
Marcus Whitman Middle/High School

Lake Teletskoye is one of the largest lakes in Russia and one of the fifteen deepest lakes on the planet. The lake is a popular destination spot because of its pristine forest and options for outdoor activities. Over two thirds of the area surrounding the lake are a reserve and the Altai Mountains are a UNESCO World Heritage site.

The lake is called the Golden Lake. There is a legend that during a time of famine a hunter found a gold ingot and while he went to sell it his family perished. Upon return he was so distressed that he jumped off the mountain top and into the lake, never to be seen again. They say that is why it is called the Golden Lake.

We took a boat from the northern part of the lake for a long ride to the Kordon Bele reserve. The boat ride was over an hour long with a few stops along the way at some of the waterfalls.

Lake Teletskoye was settled by the Scythians in the 7th century. They came from the Black Sea twice a year to bury their dead. The Scythians believed that the bodies needed to be buried in a remote area because if the enemies found the burial site then they would be defeated.  

There is an undisturbed burial mound at the reserve at the south end of Lake Teletskoye. The mound is intact because after the discovery and removal of Princess Ukok many natural disasters were attributed to the disturbance of the sacred burial mound and subsequent burial mounds that were found remain intact. The mound is marked with a jasper stone (not native to the area) engraved with the image of a face.

In a separate location there is a stone totem called "head of a dog". This totem was used to protect the settlement from bad spirits identify the tribe and serve as a place for sacrifices.

After our tour of the reserve we had a delicious lunch prepared by several of the 17 year round villagers. The scrumptious Altai food included fried fish, summer shchi, fern and carrot salad, lepyoshka, potatoes with dill, sweet and savory blini, blini with fresh honey served with fresh milk, tea and compote.

After enjoying the eventful day we went for a swim, where the water was significantly warmer that in the Northern part of the lake, and got back in the boats for our ride back to Artybash.

Miners Pharmacy

Kristine Fredrick, WOIS School 58, Rochester City School District

Tuesday July 21, we went to the Miner's Pharmacy Museum. This is the oldest museum in Barnaul and also the 1st pharmacy in Barnaul and all of Siberia. Remember, this was a mining town. We had a costumed tour guide and a new interpreter who lead us through the beautifully reconstructed rooms.

In the first room we were introduced to the founders of the pharmacy, the building's history, and some folklore about the place.

In 1752, a one story building was built. In 1793 a flood, due to a broken factory dam, ruined that building. In 1794, a new building was built.

The photo below shows that the new structure is designed in the Russian classicist style.

The bottle collection below shows bottles all found during reconstruction in 2010-12. My friend John Kelly has a large bottle collection and will really like this.

Frederick August Wilhelmovich Gebler is a famous doctor, herbalist and scientist who worked here. Our docent shared a romantic version of how he came to Siberia.

Gebler was in the army near Germany. He left the army for the love of a German woman, but her parents protested because they were Lutheran and Gebler was Orthodox. They fled together to Moscow, but could not marry there either. So they went to Siberia and married here.

The non romantic version sounds like this: he just tired of work as doctor in the army and left.

In the same room, many books are on display. There was very little medicine at the time and the diseases were killing many. 1860's pharmacy science was studied here, many books were released. The texts include many recipes for medicines used at the time. During WWII, this pharmacy supplied medicine and supplies for the war.

Some famous visitors are connected to this pharmacy. One legend, I think, explains that the cellar is haunted by Dostoyevsky. Perhaps because he went to the cellar when he visited and saw light and had a very precious vision. I'm pretty sure he was on opiates (medical use). Another version says that in 1857, Dostoyevsky lived here while visiting because he became ill.

From the first room, we are lead upstairs to a reconstruction of a 19th century pharmacy lab. Here, all their medicines were made from natural herbs and ingredients. Ingredients were dried, and made into pills. The docent explained that from herbs and distillations, they made powders, and added a paste substance, and it became like a pastry rolled to strips and then to tablets. The pills were powdered to keep them from sticking together, and salted to preserve them, and kept in jars. You can see some of the tools here for pressing and storing pills.

Toothpaste and brush from pig lard and salted and horsetail. Many health items were sold at the pharmacy.

Other items made here were purgatives from salt and lemon citric acid.

There was a bottle of snake wine: beheaded, gutted snake placed in wine and used for treatment of something I hope I never get.

We were allowed to smell Garlic wine made recently from an authentic recipe.

Jars for herbs, medicines, for mixing.

The scale in the lab is very sensitive, down to one dram.

Back downstairs, In the third room of the historic building, hangs a wood home pharmacy kit. Along another wall there is a 19th century pharmacy counter with a scale and a period German cash register. People could buy herbs, medicine, and Medical equipment was also sold: scissors, rinser, pierced, syringes, artificial leeches. There was such a thing there to see. One legend says that Mozart, Rafael and Washington died of blood letting. After viewing the three historic rooms, we had a great treat.

The front room of the building was set up for a tea tasting of natural teas from the Altai taiga.

Teas and balsams are made from all natural ingredients of the Altai region. We were served tea, jam and honey. It became a swarm of eating, drinking and pouring for several minutes until it appeared the locusts had passed through.

The jam is sea buckthorn, strong in Keratin, and honey from this region. These all improve immunity.

The balsam is from this pharmacy. It is made of thorn apple, mint, bergenia (badan), motherwort (pustyrnik). The Balsam's flavor is thick, syrupy, sweet, no alcohol flavor, smoky, and fruity like smoked plums.

The hosts were very generous with us. We spent some time in their shop, which looks much like the health and beauty section of my natural food co-op, Abundance Cooperative Market, in Rochester. Healthy ideas always make me feel at home.

A Visit to Biysk

Jonathan Porschet, Geneva Middle School

Sunday afternoon we visited Biysk a city of a little more than 200,000 inhabitants, located on the east of Altai Krai.  Biysk was founded early in the 18th century by order of Peter the Great.  We visited a monument to Peter the Great which also celebrated the survival of the early fortress after enduring invasion.

Biysk continues to be the headquarters of the Russian Orthodox Church in the Altai.  We enjoyed an extensive tour through historic Orthodox chapels and the Archbishop's home.  The Chapels have been beautifully restored; and restoration continues at the Archbishop's residence--which also houses an extensive collection of artifacts.  The care taken in restoration provides an echo to Soviet times when the spaces were used (among other things) to house livestock, military vehicles and fuel.

“Belokurikha Bliss”

Joan Leonard, Geneva High School

After our first full week in Barnaul, where we settled into our living quarters at the Altai Pedagogical Profilactory, hit the books and the nearby book store for our language and culture classes and supplies, and had every minute not spent in class packed to the hilt with visits to schools and community service, a concert and multiple touring excursions, a cruise on the River Ob, late night card and other games – and, did I mention, study-study-study? - and general exploration and enjoyment of the city of Barnaul, we set out for our first trip away from our new “home.”

We arrived in beautiful Belokurikha on Friday evening and soon agreed the site was well worth the long bus ride, during which we rode along a two-lane highway sometimes transformed into three lanes, with maniacal drivers passing, speeding, braking, and careening around curves.  Belokurikha is a resort town located about 4 hours south of Barnaul.  It is in Altai Krai as well, but, at at the foot of the impressive Tserkovka Mountain, it is where the steppe ends and the Altai Mountains begin. 

Our accommodations at the Hotel Belovodye surprised and delighted us.  Fantastic lodging, consistently hot showers, a varied selection of delicious food, good, strong coffees and teas, and fine service spoiled us.  It took us no time at all to unpack and get comfortable.  We had easy access to a large indoor water park with slides, jet-stirred waters, and multiple pools and hot tubs.  Perhaps most popular were the Russian banya, Finnish sauna, and Turkish steam room, and there were those among us who welcomed even the ice bath house!

The weather was on-and-off-again damp and rainy, but that didn’t dissuade our party as we recharged our batteries during our 40+ hours in Belokurikha.  We kicked off Saturday with a walking tour of the city, during which our knowledgeable guide – ably assisted by the translation service of Igor Kolesov, Altai State Pedagogical Academy English Philology Department Faculty Member – told us that the city’s name means “white smoke,” referring to the mist that rises from hot springs discovered in the late 1700s when Russian settlers passed through the area.  Although founded in 1803, Belokurikha was only officially inaugurated as a city in 1867 when a doctor built a wooden cabin near a spring and the site was advertised for the benefits of its healthful waters. 

We all hiked the lower mountain trails on Saturday, a light hike by some in our party’s standards, but a fine introduction to the beauty of the region, and later in the afternoon, twelve of us enjoyed a chair lift up to the top and did even more hiking.  [See related post on that adventure.] 

Walking alongside streams and waterfalls on a well-used trail and filling our eyes with the lush vegetation and wondrous views was so relaxing.  There were hundreds of orange butterflies flitting along flower-tops and chipmunks and birds were in abundance.  We crossed a mini-suspension bridge and had fun bouncing and swaying along on the planks over the rushing stream.  We stopped at a wooden pavilion near a forest meadow for some food and drink, the liberal amount and variety of which amazed us!   We looked on our petite guide Elena Shushakova, who’d carried this repast in her Mary-Poppins-like backpack, with astonishment!  We rested, toasted with vodka, and had our fill – we are in Russia, after all, so the food and drink are always generous - before the return trip to town.

After lunch at the buffet-style restaurant, our group split up to further explore.  Six people walked and shopped their way back to the hotel and more banya – and vodka? – time.  The remaining dozen of us hopped on the bus and experienced the summit via chair lift and hike, as previously mentioned.  Point of view, we had the better end of the deal as the weather cleared for us, and we were rewarded with stunning birds’-eye views and vistas.  We walked to an outcropping called “The Chapel,” and heard the story behind how and why a brilliantly shining cross was planted atop a neck-craningly-high stack of boulders. Several of us scrambled up the rocks, but none made it to the very scraggly top, so the cross remained out of reach. 

Once down and on our way back to the lift, again, the resourceful Elena set before us healthful, sustaining snacks – and vodka! – produced from her magical backpack.  We then returned to the trail, admiring the stunning gifts of Nature all around us.  The mist of late afternoon started to roll in, but not before we spotted a birch tree with ribbons tied to it, symbol of an ancient heathen rite of worshipping the spirit of Altai – Altaidyn Eezi. 

The ritual is called kaira or dyalama (yalama).  According to Altaian creation myth, the world is divided into three spheres – Heaven, Earth, and Underground.  When a human being climbed to the top of a mountain pass, he had to sacrifice something because he was close to a god’s dwelling.  That sacrifice was ribbons.  A ribbon-tied tree symbolizes a bridge between the three worlds.  The branches of the tree stretch up toward the heavenly realm of the gods, the trunk is firmly on Earth where man dwells, and the tree’s roots spread underground to the world of spirits.  Ribbons are tied only on the eastern side of a birch, larch, or Siberian pine tree and only tied to trees that grow in particular places such as in mountain passes or by springs.  We were reminded of the thankfulness ancient peoples had toward nature, and certainly our spirits were thankful for the opportunity to experience it firsthand as well. 

Once off the mountain, we walked in the rain among the shops in the town center.  These used to be seasonal open markets but have evolved into more permanent, year-round pavilions. Everywhere we saw evidence of the bounty of this region, where spa resorts, growing tourism, and agriculture (particularly dairy processing, beer production, and beekeeping) are the primary economic pursuits. 

Earlier we’d heard about how the Belokurikian people have always been very proud of their long-standing history as a spa location.  The spring waters of the region have reportedly healed skin, eye, and joint illnesses, and the idyllic atmosphere has undoubtedly allowed many to recuperate from the stresses of living in a hectic world.  The city has won their country’s gold medal as the best resort location in Russia for the last four years.   In addition to its more than 20 spa sanitorias - not to be confused with “sanitoriums” or restrictive mental health institutions - Belokurikha’s layout includes thoughtfully landscaped grounds and gardens, winding walkways along babbling brooks, scenic running and hiking trails above and throughout the city, and everywhere, view of the surrounding acres and miles of forests planted by the townspeople long ago. 

For the weekend, we were the grateful recipients of the people’s contribution.  We thoroughly enjoyed Belokurikian hospitality and the recreational and therapeutic benefits of Belokurikha! 

Belokurikha chairlift

Chairlift

Kristine Fredrick, World of Inquiry School,  Rochester, NY

Belokurikha is a resort town in the southern edge of the Siberian steppe. Here you will find hills blanketed in green.   Purposefully planted firs and birch forests fill the town's air with a medicinal vapor. The town is crowded with curing resorts, spas, sanatoria, hostels and hotels. The ionized, radon-tinged waters are famous for their health benefits, and regional physicians have decades of studies to prove the correct times, temperatures, and treatments in these waters for various ailments.

I came for the hiking.

We did get to hike on Saturday morning, and it was a short hike. The tour leader preferred to aim toward vodka drinking and folklore rather than reaching a summit. We have a group of 18 so peaking isn't on everyone's bucket list.

Saturday, after lunch, summit seekers were brought up to a chairlift. This may sound like cheating, but I have done this before. In Arizona, I was 15 when Aunt Suzy took me and Ray up Snowbowl in August to see the view and hike around.

I remembered that hike and a few other chairlifted hikes as I took in the fresh air, the landscapes, and enjoyed the ride up. In China, I went up to the wall at Sim Ai Tai. in Poland, I spent a day on a mountain after waiting in the Katowce lift line for ages. The vodka tour "consultant" here really didn't think the lift would be interesting and tried to scratch it in favor of banya time - with vodka. He might have had some takers.

We had an even 10 or twelve go for the lift trip. Sebastien and I snapped photos, mine are destined to be screensavers and backgrounds since they are just the patterns you see below and around you as you glide and creak along the cable. Don't think about the cable when you dangle in the air: small steel bars and a wood plank seat propping you on the letter c that carries you up the mountain. I did. I wondered how the steel cable is joined because it must be a completed circle. And before that, Sebastien had to point out how slack the line was on our upward side, while the down direction was taut. Just enjoy the view.

The view is not just pretty, or full of good air. It is instructional. From the lift you can see the steppe as it meets the hills, and the neatly planted rows of trees that green the mountains and waken your lungs. You can see the crops, rivers, small lakes and Siberian town where you never one year ago imagined you would ever go.

In the lift you notice the way the trees below have died or grown. Their moss does what it is supposed to do, on the north side, on the lower trunks. Ferns and lichen are so busy they yell from below, "look down at us!!!", and we do. Giant boulders with sparkling mineral chips, and more lichen, jutt their hard elbows out of the mountain to warn us to sit still on our letter c chairs. And we do.

Sebastien says the trees are mossy and damp near the bottom. I wonder back if that is how deep the snow was last year. He sees trees that look like birch on top, but are not white below. I see a dead tree that looks like an alligator. I think I hear a bird but ask, "is that the lift making that sound?" It is a bird that we never see. After the 20 minute ride, we turn back to see that view. And then turn forward fast so we don't miss the hop off.

What i did miss was my group when I stopped to feed chipmunks. I fed chipmunks by hand. I could pet their belly as they leaned in to take black seeds from my palm. But then I found myself alone, asking people in Russian, "did you see the big group of Americans go by?" And another, "which way did the big group of foreigners go?" Because the last couple I asked said it was a big group but they didn't hear what language. I go to an empty place and remember how Henry got lost last summer in Canada trying to find a hatch outhouse. The helicopters went looking for him when he didn't come home from a morning pee. I find the group. I find everyone, it's crowded at the top.

There is more to see all over the top of this hill. We climb on rocks that look like churches, a story of isolation, martyrdom, and love. More vodka.

We hike back and see the tied, torn strips of trash and fabric attempting to honor an Altai tradition of sacred places. A true Altai tradition only uses white cotton or white clean fabric, Yelena says.

I ride down the lift with Ryan and we find out, dangling in Siberia, that we both know Maria Gillard. She is a folk musician, a great family friend. Last year when I hiked the AT in Massachusetts, I met a man who also knew Maria. It was just a year and one week ago that I sat on that peak, after a good morning hike alone, with hikers heading the other way on that long trail. He came and joined us too and we all said where we were from, where we would go, and something nice we knew about those other places, and honored those other journeys. Yes, Rochester, good music there.

Sebastien smashed a coin at the top of the mountain, it is a souvenir that you can make. We were surprised by its light weight.

The views and the hike were well worth the time. It never felt like cheating, it was an authentic, dynamic, mountain trip.

Camp Krylatykh

By Jenna Keeton, West Street School

          We arrived at Camp Krylatykh just after 3:00 Monday afternoon.  The camp is located about a half hour outside the city of Barnaul.  Before our arrival, the anticipation of our group varied as none of us knew quite what to expect; our itinerary simply read, "volunteering Camp Krylatykh/Children's Camp."  What we were about to experience was much more rewarding and exciting than any of us could predict.
          As we stepped off the bus, we were greeted by many smiling faces of campers and directors alike.  The group had prepared a traditional song and dance to welcome us and took our hands encouraging us to join in on the dance.

When the song ended we received a formal welcome by the camp director.  As she spoke to us about the significance and history of the camp, campers tied a camp scarf around each of our necks.  The scarf represents three of the camp values: white stands for hope, blue stands for sky and red stands for the history of Russia.

It was then that we were introduced to the youngest camper (a four year-old), who led us in singing "Katyusha", a popular Russian song.

          Following the song we were led to the camp auditorium where we watched as several groups of campers, of varying ages, performed songs and dances they had prepared for us.  It was clear how much talent, dedication and time was involved in choreography, costumes and sound.  It was certainly a real treat!

          As the performance came to a close, we were split into smaller mixed groups of Fulbright participants and campers to participate in a myriad of traditional camp activities including songs, dances, finger plays, making friendship bracelets, soccer, chess, checkers, sewing, doll making, pottery, traditional games and of course, tea and cookies!  In the midst of all this excitement we were able to practice our newly acquired (for the majority of us) Russian language skills to inquire about the campers names, ages, likes/dislikes, etc.  Likewise, many of the campers were able to use the English they had been learning in school to communicate with us.  Despite our language barriers both groups came together to enjoy each other's company.

          In addition to the many camp games and activities we participated in, we also received a special performance by two individuals from Yakutia, the coldest part of Russia.  The two performers were adorned in traditional clothing and jewelry.  They spoke to us briefly about their region and traditions.  The woman performed then played a traditional instrument and led us in a traditional dance and chant-like song.  It was such a humbling experience.

          As our trip came to a close, no one wanted to leave.  We had shared many smiles, hugs, candy and selfies :-) with the campers.  Through this opportunity we were provided with a unique and authentic way to interact with a large population of Russian children in an exciting, engaging and fun environment.  As we boarded the bus to return to the Profolactory, each of us commented on how much fun we had.  We all participated in different activities and we delighted in sharing our experience with the others in our group.  In the end, our experience at Camp Krylatykh allowed us to have a glimpse into the summer life of Russian, Altaian children and see how how truly we are all alike.